Cultural Encounters in an Ancient Land
Beyond the Deserts: Persia’s Rich Tapestry
While Justine Tibesar’s journey through Persia (modern-day Iran) is often defined by the harsh desert crossings she endured, her experience in this ancient empire encompassed far more than just sandy tracks and extreme heat. As one of the few Western women to travel these routes alone in 1931, Justine experienced a Persia in transition—a country balancing thousands of years of history with modernization efforts under Reza Shah Pahlavi.
A Land in Transformation
When Justine entered Persia in mid-1931, she arrived during a fascinating historical moment. Reza Shah, who had come to power in 1925, was implementing sweeping reforms to modernize the country. These included building Iran’s first trans-national railway, establishing the country’s first university, and introducing Western-style clothing reforms.
Yet the Persia that Justine experienced away from major cities remained largely unchanged from centuries past. Villages maintained traditional ways of life, with architecture, clothing, and customs that would have appeared strikingly different from her European homeland. The contrast between Tehran’s modernizing urban landscape and the timeless rural communities through which she predominantly traveled offered Justine a unique perspective on a country in flux.
Persian Hospitality
A notable aspect of Justine’s journey through Persia that differs from her desert crossing accounts was her experience of Persian hospitality. Despite language barriers and cultural differences, she frequently encountered kindness from local people.
During her illness in Douzhab, she was cared for by locals who, despite limited resources, ensured she received medical attention from a “native doctor.”(1) This tradition of hospitality toward travelers has deep roots in Persian culture, influenced by both Zoroastrian traditions and Islamic teachings about the importance of caring for guests and travelers.
In smaller settlements where she stopped, Justine likely experienced the custom of being offered tea and rest—fundamental elements of Persian hospitality. These human connections provided crucial support during the most challenging segments of her journey.
Navigating Gender Dynamics
As a solo female traveler in a predominantly conservative society, Justine faced unique challenges. In 1931 Persia, while urban women were beginning to gain more freedoms under Reza Shah’s modernization, rural areas maintained stricter gender segregation and expectations.
Justine’s presence on a motorcycle—a man’s vehicle in the eyes of many—would have been extraordinary. Her foreign status likely granted her certain exemptions from local gender norms, creating what anthropologists call a “third gender” category that allowed her greater freedom of movement than local women might have experienced.
Though not explicitly documented in available accounts, Justine must have navigated these complex gender dynamics with considerable diplomatic skill, respecting local customs while maintaining her independence as a traveler.
Ancient Cities and Cultural Landmarks
Between the desert crossings, Justine’s route took her through several significant Persian cities, each with thousands of years of history. In Mashhad (Meched), she would have witnessed the golden domes and minarets of the Imam Reza shrine, one of the most important religious sites in the Shia Muslim world. The city’s title “la Sainte” (the Holy) in her accounts reflects its religious significance.(2)
Tehran, which she reached after her second thousand-kilometer crossing, was transforming under Reza Shah’s direction into a more European-style capital, with wider avenues and modern buildings alongside traditional bazaars and mosques. Her brief time in the capital would have provided a stark contrast to the isolated desert regions.
Kermanshah (Quemanshah), her final major Persian destination, would have offered glimpses of ancient history through sites like the Behistun Inscription—a multilingual rock relief from the time of Darius the Great—and the Taq-e Bostan rock reliefs from the Sassanid era.
The Mechanical Challenge of Persian Roads
While Justine’s motorcycle had already proven its reliability through Southeast Asia and India, the Persian roads presented unique technical challenges. The inconsistent surfaces—alternating between hard-packed earth, loose sand, and rocky terrain—required constant adaptation of riding technique.
The FN 350cc, designed primarily for European roads, faced tests far beyond its intended use. Maintaining the motorcycle in these conditions with limited access to spare parts or mechanical assistance makes Justine’s technical achievement all the more impressive. Her ability to keep the machine running despite minimal mechanical knowledge speaks to both her resourcefulness and the remarkable durability of the Belgian-made motorcycle.
Leaving Persia: A New Appreciation
By the time Justine reached the Persian border and entered Iraq, she had gained more than just miles on her journey—she had developed a profound appreciation for the resilience required to traverse some of the world’s most challenging territories. The Persian segment of her expedition had transformed her from an adventurous traveler into a seasoned explorer with hard-won knowledge about survival, cultural navigation, and her own capabilities.
As she later reflected on her journey, Justine’s Persian experience would stand out as perhaps the most formative portion of her entire 22,000-kilometer expedition—not just for the physical challenges she overcame, but for the cultural insights and human connections she formed along these ancient routes.
References:
(1) “Artikel Justine Tibesar englisch.pdf” – Report from the magazine “FN Sports” / October – November 1931 by Paul Destoc
(2) “La fabuleuse histoire de Justine TIBESAR.pdf” – Le fabuleux raid de 22.000 km, en 1931, de Marie Justine TIBESAR, à moto du Vietnam à Arlon by Jean-Marie Zimmerman
